Running the Gauntlet

“  I think its best to hide behind a tuk tuk until you get over the speed bumps, then accelerate before they get a chance to organise.”

As with the kids in Ethiopia, each of us have developed a unique style of avoiding the police checkpoints throughout Egypt. Every 40km we encounter a new set of officers intent on pulling us aside and providing an armed escort for the day’s cycle. Although well intended, these escorts greatly reduce our freedom and result in us spending the night at a local station with a release time determined by an officer we’ve spent the previous day annoying. 

Cycling in Egypt was never meant to be enjoyable, all reports had focused on the attitude of the local force and their unwillingness to let you experience the country without constant surveillance. Indeed despite our best efforts this close observation reached ridiculous levels as Alan and myself were told we required at least three armed guards to help us negotiate the hidden dangers at a local corner shop. 

Still as these attempts to escape grew more daring and imaginative I think a part of all of us started to enjoy the experience. 

“When it hits 5.15 start to pick up your speed, I reckon I can delay them for at least 10 minutes”

It was the end of our first full days escort and we were determined to use the failing light to our advantage. As Maghnus and Alan disappeared round the corner I pulled over to buy an orange. As I negotiated a price for the fruit the trailing truck slammed on the breaks and a couple of henchmen ran towards me gesticulating wildly as I fumbled for the correct change.

 Once back on the bike I tried to maintain a speed slow enough to buy the boys time but fast enough to keep this fact concealed. Finally they must have realised and sped past me waving angrily, by now they were too late and although we would undoubtedly be reeled in the following day for now at least we were free. 

Throughout the following days we successfully broke out of a police station, dodged through road blocks with up to 23 armed guards, and verbally reprimanded five officers responsible for knocking Maghnus off his bike. On each occasion our need to stay on the main Cairo road landed us back under protection, but the thrill of the chase completely removed any of the usual pain associated with a days cycle and helped us cover bigger distances than ever before. 

On Monday evening we reached Cairo two days ahead of schedule and almost without realising. After almost 7 months we had come to the end of our African leg, a fact which still hasn’t fully sunk in. Although looking forward to Europe something tells me our adventures may get a little tamer, its always the toughest days which end up being the most memorable, we may even grow to miss those pesky police.